Bridal Beauty Detroit: February 2011

Here is some great skincare information that a colleague of mine, DeeVa Beauty, sends to all her brides-to-be. She was kind enough to let me share it with all of you. It's not only good advice on how to look your best on your wedding day, but also for you to look your best every day.

Skincare 101

Aren’t we lucky to be living in a time when we can take such good care of ourselves and preserve our skin’s youthful glow? Your skin is the largest organ in the human body, and our overall health is reflected in it. The skin never lies and connects to every system in the body and if something is amiss; your skin displays signs of interior and exterior distress. No matter what our age we can make changes in our lives that will show up on our skin. The answer to beautiful, glowing skin is in our lifestyles and in nature.

Diet and lifestyle changes can have a profound effect on the appearance and health of the skin. In fact, published findings indicate that one may have more control over the rate at which their skin ages than any other organ in the body. To slow aging and partially reverse it, you must take control over all the factors that have been identified in the skin degeneration process. Scientific evidence now indicates that, in addition to proper nutrition and health care, the daily application of a variety of agents plays an important role in the preservation and rejuvenation of your skin.

The concept of skin ‘type ’in terms of the standard normal, oily, combination or dry types is often misunderstood. The primary difficulty in understanding your skin type is that, in addition to your skin’s condition, you must recognize that outside factors can and do influence what you see and feel on your face What kind of environment you live in absolutely has an impact on skin. Someone living in moist Seattle has different skincare concerns from someone living in the hot, dry air of Arizona or Los Angeles.

Your skincare routine also plays a significant factor. Using the wrong skincare products can wreak havoc on your face. Overusing moisturizers, scrubs, AHAs can all affect the skin. Also you need to remember what you see today may not be what you see tomorrow, next week, next month or season to season. Emotions, weather conditions, stress, hormonal levels, menstrual cycles, weight fluctuations, diet, alcohol can directly affect your skin. It is not unusual for women to have a little bit of each skin type simultaneously or at different times of the month or week. Almost everyone at some time or another, if not all the time, has combination skin.

Always wear sunglasses to avoid squinting…which gives you wrinkles.

SOME GENERAL RULES

Always wear a sunscreen
Drink plenty of water
Use gentle products to cleanse
Make sure you exfoliate
Hydrate with a good moisturizer
Eat a balanced diet
Get enough sleep
NEVER, NEVER sleep in your makeup
DON’T pick at your skin

CLEANSE, TONE and MOISTURIZE:

It is important to wash your face in the morning to remove the dead skin cells that accumulate at night. Research also shows that while we are sleeping our body is in “repair” mode. This includes the body’s largest organ…our skin. A cleansing routine is a beauty essential!! Cleanse your skin twice daily, using a mild, natural cleanser designed for your skin type to wash away dirt, makeup, toxins and pollutants. Try using gentle foams, gels, creams or milks for facial cleaning. Remember to rinse, rinse, rinse, to prevent any residue from clogging the pores. Look for coconut or fruit sugar based cleanser. Opt for fragrance-free products to avoid skin care related allergic reactions.

Use a toner or astringent to ensure complete removal of any residual cleanser from the skin. Toners stimulate the circulation, reduce oiliness and help refine unevenly textured skin. A skin toner is milder and less drying than an astringent which is best for those prone to oily skin.

Moisturize for the skin to replenish, hydrate and protect. Choose those that contain plant-based moisturizers using natural oils and butters like shea butter and jojoba oil with essential fatty acids (omega 3 fatty acids). These ingredients penetrate the skin far better than man-made emollients made from petroleum derivatives. Use a daytime moisturizer with SPF of 15 or 20.

Moisturize at night with natures most perfect oil. Extra virgin coconut oil has been used for centuries by people all over the world and is nature’s oldest and most popular moisturizer. It keeps the skin strong and supple, preventing sagging, wrinkled skin. It protects from free radicals and prevents dry skin, blemishes, heals and repairs, and is known to reduce liver spots. Do not limit the use to your face. It can be applied anywhere on your body, heels, hands, cuticles, elbows, etc.

EXFOLIATING:

Your skin is constantly shedding dead skin cells. As we age this natural process slows down. Skin cells don’t shed as quickly or as easily and they build up and layer on top of each other. Your skin looks dull, your pores get clogged and more prone to breakouts. Any skincare products you apply on top of skin that is not exfoliated on a regular basis just sits on the surface not being able to penetrate and do its job. You are wasting your money and just clogging your pores more so, .making them more prone to breakouts.

I am a big fan of scrubs, however, use of abrasive scrubs over time has shown microscopic tears in the cell wall, and breaks down of its elasticity, resulting in premature sagging. Better to use the very fine crystal scrubs which are softer and not as abrasive, rather than the walnut or apricot shells.

ALPHA-HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAs)

Exfoliants such as citric acid (derived from citrus fruits), lactic acid (derived from sour milk) and glycolic acid (derived from sugar cane) increase cell turnover by dissolving the protein bonds between the cells. Loosening the ‘glue’ so to speak that holds the cells together. Acids only penetrate the epidermis, or outermost layer of the skin, so they don’t prevent the formation of wrinkles which takes place in the dermis, or second deeper layer of skin. However, by using AHA’s regularly skin cells are removed, oil is controlled, the look of fine lines is reduced, and skin coloring and tone is evened out, leaving glowing and smooth skin. Be careful not to overdo it though as these acids can be irritating. Make sure you only use one AHA product per day, and always wear a sunscreen since AHA thin out the top layer of skin and make it more vulnerable to harmful exposure, so using a sunscreen is a good idea.

Overview of AHAs:

Glycolic: The most potent. It has a smaller molecular structure and goes further into the skin. Because it penetrates so well, the exfoliation is more complete.

Lactic: usually comes from soured dairy products and is gentler than Glycolic. With the larger molecules they don’t absorb as deep, therefore cause less irritation, and is better for sensitive skins.

Citric: Vitamin C can be extremely unstable in liquid or lotion products. When exposed to air or sunlight it oxidizes very quickly and actually causes free radical damage once this happens. Stabilized vitamin C is available but it is very expensive so will come with a higher price tag. When getting a good quality C product they do stimulate collagen growth and do help brighten the skin. Beware of cheap products that claim Vitamin C as an ingredient, they won’t work because as an effective ingredient it is pricey. Packaging must be in an opaque and airtight pump to pressure ingredient potency.

Also to keep in mind a good AHA will have a higher %. It should be between 6-10% to be effective. Beware of brands that say they have AHAs in them but they have only 2-3%.

BETA-HYDROXY ACIDS (BHAs)

These fat-soluble acids which include salicylic acid are gentler that AHAs. In addition to exfoliating the top layer of skin, they brighten dull skin and clean out clogged pores by going deep into the oil glands and breaking down the accumulated skin cells. Their ability to target blackheads and pimples makes them perfect for women with oily skin and/or acne. Because they are slightly gentler than AHAs, BHAs can be applied twice a day.

The main difference between AHAs and BHAs is that AHAs are water-soluble, while BHA is oil-soluble. This unique property of BHA allows it to penetrate the oil in the pores and exfoliate the built up skin cells in the oil gland. AHAs are less able to do this because they can’t get through the fat content of the sebum (oil). Therefore, BHA is indicated for use where blackheads and blemishes are the issue, and AHAs are more suitable for sun-damaged, thickened, dry skin where blackouts are not a problem.

Use an AHA or BHA in a gel or liquid form. Don’t use cleansers that claim they have AHAs/BHAs in them. You’re wasting your money because AHAs and BHAs only work when they are absorbed into the skin; when they are in a cleanser they get washed down the drain.

SUNSCREENS

About 80% of aging is due to the sun. Sun damage is cumulative. Whenever you are outside and it is daylight you are exposed to UVA/UVB, so wearing a sun protection every day will insure that you are protected from the environment. Women of any color can get skin cancer. Although dark-skinned complexions may not burn as easily as fair-skinned women, the sun can still do permanent damage, particularly wrinkles and sun spots. With a sunscreen you will have less ‘sun’ spots (hyper pigmentation), and less redness in the skin (permanently dilated capillaries).

Your sunscreen has to be at least SPF 15 but really should be SPF 20-25 if used under makeup.

If not using any makeup you can go with a higher one-SPF 30 -50. If you are treating hyper pigmentation or undergoing any peels/microdermabrasion or using Retin-A then you definitely want to wear a high SPF.

Look for the ingredients: TITANIUM DIOXIDE or ZINC OXIDE. If one of these isn’t listed as the main active ingredients then pass on it. And it must provide both UVA and UVB (broad-spectrum) protection. The rule is to apply after you moisturize or find a moisturizer that already has a SPF in it.

And toss last years opened sunscreen…it’s probably lost some of its effectiveness.

Also hats with brims and sunglasses of course are also added protection.

REMEMBER: You may need separate products to deal with the different skin types on the face because you should treat different skin types, even on the same face, differently.

The nose, chin, center of the forehead, and the center of the cheek all have more oil glands than other parts of the face; and like the rest of our bodies, skin is in a constant state of change. Even women with perfect complexions go through phases of having oily, dry, or blemish-prone skin. Almost every woman over the age of 40 will have some amount of sun-damaged skin. What destroys skin is unprotected sun exposure, smoking, and irritating skin care products.

Dry and oily skin that is present at the same time along with some redness may be an early sign of rosacea.

Large patches of flaky, dry, red skin may be caused by psoriasis.

Dry patches of rough skin can be caused by an allergic reaction or by eczema.

Dry, flaky skin may also be caused by a Thyroid problem.

And remember that your face is not the only place that is affected by aging. Use your facial products on your neck, chest and hands. You can even use your exfoliants on your knees, elbows, and heels to get rid of dry, rough skin there also.

NUTRIENTS FOR HEALTHY SKIN: Inside and out

Your skin is a fingerprint of what is going on inside your body, and all skin conditions, from psoriasis to acne to aging, are the manifestations of your body’s internal needs. There is a lot of important new research showing tremendous power of antioxidants in general and in some specific nutrients in particular that can make an important difference in the way your skin looks and feels, and even in how well it ages. When combined with a good diet, the right dietary supplements can help keep your skin looking healthy and younger.

DIET:

SALMON LENTILS GREEN TEA

TUNA BEANS POMEGRANATES

SHELLFISH TOMATOES WALNUTS

SARDINES AVOCADOS FRUITS / VEGETABLES

MACKEREL FLAX SEED OIL

SUPPLEMENTS:

Vitamins C, E, A, and B COMPLEX can all help improve skin health.

You can find plenty of Vitamin C in citrus fruits and vegetables such as bell peppers, broccoli, cauliflower, and leafy greens. You can also take Vitamin C supplements up to 500 to 1,000 milligrams per day.

You can find Vitamin E in vegetable oils, nuts, seeds, olives, spinach, and asparagus. It is difficult to get enough from food so a supplement is good to take. Stay within 400-600 international units per day.

Fruits are loaded with Vitamin A

When it comes to skin, the single most important B vitamin is Biotin, a nutrient that forms the basis of skin, hair and nail cells. Without adequate amounts, you might end up with dermatitis which is an itchy, scaly skin reaction or sometimes even hair loss. Even a mild deficiency causes symptoms. Biotin is found in many foods such as bananas, eggs, oatmeal and rice.

Minerals:

SELENIUM: plays a key role in cancer prevention

COPPER: helps to develop elastin, the fibers that support skin structure

ZINC: important to clear up acne, in fact acne itself is a symptom of zinc

deficiency.

Poor skin elasticity, easy bruising, catching colds easily, and white spots on your

Fingernails may be a sign that you need more zinc.

Bumps on the back of your arms or the tops of your thighs, sensitivity to light, dry hair or skin, and chronic bronchitis or chest colds all may signify a need for more Vitamin A, Also, not getting enough sun

(especially in winter), older age, and a family history of osteoporosis means you should consume more Vitamin A.

Easy bruising, bleeding gums upon brushing or flossing, premature wrinkling, poor immunity to colds and flu, and achy joints may indicate a need for more Vitamin C.

Excessive consumption of fatty or fried foods requires more Vitamin E.

Omega-3 fatty acids are a key ingredient for beautiful skin. Most people are seriously lacking in these fats that are vital for vibrant, healthy looking skin. Eczema, dry skin, cracked heels and premature aging are all signs of Omega-3 deficiency. Omega-3 fats prevent dehydration in the cells so that the skin cells are strong and full of moisture. Fish oil and Alaskan wild salmon are good sources of Omega-3. If you are a Vegan, you can use hemp, linseed and chia seeds.

Get plenty of fiber in your diet. Why fiber? Well one of the way toxins are removed is to have plenty of fiber as it keeps the digestive system working most efficiently. If wastes are not eliminated, they often get re-circulated into the blood stream and therefore to the skin as a means of elimination which can cause acne.

Proper nutrition is absolutely vital to healthy skin. Eating a diet of foods in their natural state and avoiding processed foods is one of the best ways to obtain radiant, glowing skin. Eating foods rich in antioxidants and boosting your Omega-3 intake will result in dramatic improvement in the tone, texture, and health of your skin. A daily, high quality multi-vitamin is a great way to insure that you are receiving all the nutrients for general good health and glowing skin.

If you are intolerant to certain foods, it may show up as bags or dark circles under your eyes. Sugar is one of the most aging toxins, since fluctuating blood sugars are highly aging. Cow’s milk is linked with acne and poor skin quality. Excess alcohol and other toxins that make the liver overworked can make the skin looked haggard. Consuming as many antioxidants as possible is the way to go. Kale, cabbage, chili peppers, parsley, artichokes are some of the best vegetables. Berries, pineapple, pomegranate, prunes and kiwis are the best fruits.

DRINK 8-10 OR MORE GLASSES OF WATER A DAY:

If you drink coffee and alcohol then definitely drink more water. If your cells are not hydrated, both internally and externally, they will dry up and cause premature aging. It is best to spread the consumption of water in small amounts over the course of the day to be sure it is properly absorbed.

REMEMBER: if you are thirsty… you are already dehydrated.

GET ENOUGH SLEEP:

While we are sleeping our bodies rest and repair. Sleep is also the time when our bodies are most metabolically active- the body rids itself of toxins that would otherwise wreak havoc with your skin. The reason why dark circles appear around the eyes when we are tired is because the eye area has the thinnest skin on the body and when we are tired, circulation in the body slows which means less oxygen in the blood and darker less oxygenated blood.

Give your skin extra care during the winter when dry air can dry out your skin, and cold windy weather also depletes your skin of moisture. Consider running a humidifier to increase the moisture in the air.

And lastly, remember that your makeup is only going to look as good as your skin looks underneath its application.

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